cruising the Cabot trail

Cape Breton is bigger than most people imagine. It's sort of an island (or many islands) within the not-quite-an-island province of Nova Scotia. The Cabot trail makes for a fabulous road trip.

It's about 200 miles and takes 4 hours for a complete loop, or better, 4 days if you have the time. The optimal time of year is late September through October, when the aspens are turning. Right now, the forests are extremely green, which made this Californian happy.

At the northern end of the island is Cape Breton Highlands National Park, with various Acadian settlements and all levels of hiking along the route. I set off from Mangaree Valley, heading clockwise, so north toward Cheticamp. This is the Mangaree River.

 A lot of folks at my lodge are going fishing. This area is known for trout, salmon, lobster, and crab. Along the roadside, you can buy lobster traps and other gear; one sign announced "tourist traps," which made me smile.

 One noticeable aspect of the park is the pink stone. This mountain is called the red cap.

The west coast of Cape Breton lies on the Bay of St Lawrence, a continuation of the St. Lawrence River, which goes east from Quebec.

Parcs Canada does a great job of educating visitors. This boardwalk hike is called the bog, for obvious reasons, though apparently it is more of a fen.

These are pitcher plants, collecting water.

There are even lily pads in the bog. Pretty scenic for a bog.

I managed to resist stopping at the bakeries of Cheticamp and headed north east. This viewpoint gives you a sense of the inner canyons. I wish I'd had time for a longer hike into the park interior. By west coast standards, these are hills. The highest point in the park isn't as high as Mt. Tam, so if I can do the Dipsea, I can definitely conquer the highlands.

As you'll see, Cape Breton Highlands inspires questions about the unusual geology. Happily, there's an infographic showing the layers of volcanic and sedimentary rock through millions of years, including relatively recently, under glaciers.

I sped through Pleasant Valley, though it was pleasant enough, and headed off on a gentle hike to a waterfall.

 Canada really does have splendid forests.

 This could have been New Zealand, though it's not as wet.

I headed east across the top of the park, skipping the famous beach at Meat Cove. This iconic Nova Scotia lighthouse in Neil's Harbour is now an ice cream parlour.

It's at roughly 1 pm on the clock face. Heading south, you reach several rocky beaches with pink rocks and sand. Although it looks like Georgian Bay, Ontario, where I visited cottage country two years ago exactly, this is the Northern Atlantic Ocean.

I'm not sure why the pink cliffs make me so happy. They just do.

Is this what Bermuda looks like? Did it just break off from Nova Scotia and drift south?

Here's a closeup where you can see all the sparkling minerals in the rock. It has mica and quartz. Canada is nothing if not rich in natural resources, from trees to valuable rocks. But that's enough driving for one day. I sped south, wishing I had more time to linger at Ingonish and the glassy harbour.

Oh, right. Did I mention the all you can eat (kind of) lobster dinner? So it turns out that Maine lobster is really Nova Scotia lobster. Or at least, they're caught from essentially the same areas. Remember last summer when I had the best lobster ever in Newfoundland? Doyle's is still probably the best, but Baddeck Lobster Suppers is a close second. Because it's a complete meal with all you can eat chowder and fresh mussels and home baked biscuits and oatcakes. I had a glass of Jost's Tidal Bay, which was positively scrumptious. And then there's dessert:

 I headed home to Normaway in Mangaree Valley (7 pm on the clock), full and content, just in time to see the sun set over the green green hills.

In the library, Pius was playing guitar and mandolin, a mix of traditional jigs and shanties and a few beautiful pieces he composed. Even more impressive, he doesn't read music, and taught himself to play by ear. What a treat! 

There's a older couple from Tampa Bay (possibly the Trump supporters, I hope not) who came here to Normaway on their honeymoon 50 odd years ago.

I'd love to return for fall foliage, and a boat tour to puffin island in the Bras d'Or, the UNESCO heritage waterway near the Iona Inn, where I spent the first night. It's a peaceful part of the world, rich in culture and natural beauty.