Monday, August 22, 2016

sweet as…

No, this is not another New Zealand post, though Canada is well forested and filled with beautiful lakes and good hiking. Happily North America remains the center of maple syrup production.

I gave into my true identity as a tourist today and stopped off at Sugarbush Hill Maple Farm for a tour led by Tom, who opened this family business a few years ago fulfilling a lifelong dream. 

Tom and his wife came from Quebec and his wife hails from a family that owns sugar shacks (cabines a sucre). 
They have 100 acres planted with 3200 maple trees. 

Here's a tree with a tap in it.

It takes 40 gallons of maple sap to produce just 1 gallon of syrup. A typical tree produces .8 liters per year. The season in March and April runs 3 to 6 weeks. Short but sweet.
The sap is then reduced through reverse osmosis and boiling. 
The goal is to end up with 66% sugar. Not 65. Not 69.
The syrup is heated by a wood-burning oven. You can see the taps on the side. 

This cut was from Big Maple, a tree that lived over 400 years and was planted prior to the French arriving in Quebec.
As you can see, Tom has quite the collection of maple syrup paraphernalia. These are molds. I used to love maple sugar candies from Vermont when I was little.
We saved the best part for last. Maple syrup comes in 4 standard concentrations—but these are all from the same tree. I got a bottle of golden and a bottle of amber just in case. I also learned the iconic maple leaf flag of Canada was not adopted until 1965. 
Jen, my hostess in Muskoka, grew up in Northern Ontario, and said they would eat snow cones drizzled with maple syrup. I can't wait to try it.





Sunday, August 21, 2016

rusty

Last time I was in Toronto, we went to an art gallery where I saw a photo of rust-colored rocks lapped by lake water and knew I had to go there. 
It only took 9 years to get to Georgian Bay. 

I'd planned to go kayaking on Mutton Lake from the farm where I'm staying. 
But it rained hard throughout the night and I got a late start. There's a drought in Ontario, as anyone here will tell you. 

Fortunately not a severe California one. It's still exquisitely green. 


The waves were big and fast moving! Parry Sound is not a little pond. Despite that, people were swimming.

The rocks were everything I'd hoped for and more. These rock piles (inuksuk) are apparently illegal at Killbear, so don't tell the Mounties. 

You can almost feel the curvature of the earth. 

Incredibly peaceful. 

Don't know about you, but I got what I came for. 

No bears were killed in this post. 


The only wildlife I've seen on this trip so far was a black squirrel in Toronto and a turtle crossing the road. 
Later I headed to Snug Harbor for dinner and got this view of the lighthouse. 

Though I liked this little free library lighthouse  even better. 


Back in Seguin after another long, hard day. Sipping local cranberry juice sweetened with local maple syrup.






Saturday, August 20, 2016

cottage country

I'm up in Muskoka ("once discovered, never forgotten"), surrounded by 30,000 lakes. It's true people have cottages here, but they are cottages the way huge chalets in Tahoe are called "cabins." Sweet houses in the country.

Cranberry fields too. This one is on Iroquois land. Did you know cranberries grow on vines? The bogs are flooded at harvest time, right around (Canadian) Thanksgiving. Apparently it's quite a sight.

Flowers are plentiful. 

And the freight train goes by now and then. 

But tonight, there was only one place to be and that was watching the last concert ever of the Tragically Hip. Despite his sparkly pants and passion for politics, Gord Downie has brain cancer and decided to head out on one last tour. CBC broadcast and streamed it around the world, commercial free. It seemed as if all of Canada was watching, singing along, and by the end, sobbing.



"Ahead By A Century"

First thing we'd climb a tree and maybe then we'd talk
Or sit silently and listen to our thoughts
With illusions of someday casting a golden light
No dress rehearsal, this is our life

And that's where the hornet stung me
And I had a feverish dream
With revenge and doubt
Tonight we smoke them out

You are ahead by a century (this is our life)
You are ahead by a century (this is our life)
You are ahead by a century

Stare in the morning shroud and then the day began
I tilted your cloud, you tilted my hand
Rain falls in real time and rain fell through the night
No dress rehearsal, this is our life

But that's when the hornet stung me
And I had a serious dream
With revenge and doubt
Tonight we smoke them out

You are ahead by a century (this is our life)

Friday, August 19, 2016

the idea of north

I spent Friday night at the Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO), catching up with Jerry Finelli about film festivals and performances in cool industrial spaces and local cider.

Jerry and I met in Iceland, hiking around Snaefellsnes and eating hakarl (putrified shark) with shots of Brennevin, the local caraway vodka.
This was a little tamer.

Lawren Harris was one of the Group of Seven. Like most Americans, my knowledge is Canadian artists is limited mostly to Canadians who made it big in the US: Justin Bieber. Joni Mitchell. Drake. Steve Martin (who produced this show). Frank Gehry (who designed the building we were in).

Ed.: Jerry says Steve Martin isn't actually Canadian. He was now in Texas.

Harris' paintings

The show provides historical context on Harris' early career, painting The Ward, an area of Toronto where recent immigrants from Eastern Europe and China lived before World War I.

In the mid 20s, his work became less realistic and more mythical.

This is Mt. Robson on the border of BC and Alberta, on the road from Vancouver to Jasper. I'd love to see it again one day.


Many of the paintings depict Baffin Island. Promptly added to my wish list.
Not sure how I'll get there.

And to bring things full circle, this evokes Hallgrimskikja, the landmark church in Reykjavik. 

Later in life, Harris' paintings became more symbolic. Graphical, but colder. They don't move me the way mountains do.

He was still obsessed with the same shapes: giant crystals and balls. But he'd moved to New Mexico. I guess he stopped going north.

Gehry's building
Gehry buildings are often a mishmash of styles and materials, and the AGO is no exception.

The spiral wooden staircase is exquisite except it's also hard to walk down, and ends abruptly.

This was my favorite section, the wooden interior of a ship. Perhaps a canoe? The glass is reminiscent of the Pompidou Centre escalators in that it provides a great view outward of the city. Here's the AGO from the back.

I am a Gehry skeptic. I see him as a talented sculptor who works in enormous scale. There's a moment in the documentary his friend Sidney Lumet made where he folds up a post it very dramatically and then crumples it slightly, and an assistant takes it away, to try to build. Best of luck, kid.

Appropriately we had dinner at a hip restaurant that was a mashup of Korean and Jewish food: latkes and short ribs. A true Toronto combination. The Ontario cider was good too.

Other mountain worshippers
The paintings reminded me of Nicholas Roerich's work, which I saw last fall at his marvelous NYC townhouse museum. Like Harris, Roerich was a theosophist. He saw the spiritual world in nature. So do I.
Roerich was a set designer, and I have a few of his evocative landscapes on the wall at home. He was also a traveler. Where Harris went north to Baffin Island and Mt Robson, Roerich went east to Tibet.


I'm headed north myself, to Mutton Lake and Parry Sound. We'll see what art the landscape inspires. 


More on Harris, including gossip:


TThe Group of Seven always looked less like insurgents than insurance salesmen. While they fancied themselves masters of the Canadian wilderness, they were, for the most part, cosmopolitan urbanites, animated by anger toward what they considered retrograde Canadian art. They cast themselves as outsiders but were very much a part of the cultural establishment. 

March 2017: There's a show at Museo Picasso Paris that includes some of Lawren Harris' work. More details including a full biography and upcoming shows featuring his paintings here.

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

can u canoe?

Ah, the air is good here in the land of Adirondack chairs. Or rather, the land of Muskoka chairs.
Joel and Sheila have an inflatable kayak and a canoe in their lovely yard. (Don't you?) And fabulous bushy-tailed black squirrels.

And many objects of interest, from their travels and beyond. 

But these people have a whole stack of canoes. Just in case. 
They also live a block from the beach: the northern shore of Lake Ontario, where everyone was out playing volleyball after dinner. 
Looking forward to exploring. It's been 9 years since I last came to Toronto. I'm sure to find more interesting art like this wave mural and sundial. 
Joel pointed out the "pebbles" are smooth beach glass: where bottles go to die. And everywhere you look, good food. 






Monday, August 15, 2016

the great white north

It's true, I'm off to Canada again.

I'll be posting stories from across the border: museums and architecture and canoe trips and maple syrup tours. Visiting brilliant, inspiring friends I first met in Costa Rica and in Iceland. Practicing my barely existent Quebecois.

Until then, keep yourself busy with 101 poutines to eat before you die.