crossroads of the Pacific

I got two New Year's Eves this year. This was by design. My past two layovers on the way back from trips were slightly disappointing: my wild night in Guangzhou on the way home from Myanmar and a night in Dublin coming back from Rome and Sicily.

But Tuesday, after a smoky day in Sydney, I boarded a flight for Honolulu at 7:20 pm. I woke up at 8:15 am before I'd left, still New Year's Eve. Second time's the charm. This time, everything went right, heralded by the airport worker who greeted our long line of international arrivals with a hearty "a-lo-haaaaa."

 The Alamo agent said I could have any car I wanted. A red convertible on Waikiki?

My first stop and only agenda for the day was to visit Pearl Harbor. All tickets for the free tour were gone until Thursday--except the ranger said she had 1 seat left at 1:00 pm. I was in!

The Marines provide an appropriately sober perspective on the sneak attack on a Sunday morning that took over 2000 lives, including civilians. Remember that Hawaii was not yet a state. The US had managed to stay out of World War II for over two years.

My friend Douglas' father was stationed at Pearl Harbor during the attack. I was fascinated when he described what it must have been like to survive the bombing with ships sinking. At the National Park site, they show a newsreel to give a hint of it.

The highlight of visiting is a boat trip to the USS Arizona Memorial. 

That's the photo at the top of this post, built over the sunken remains of the ship during the Eisenhower administration and dedicated under Kennedy.

Hard to imagine a nicer day to be stuck in Hawaii with a red convertible. Energy flagging, I stopped in for an ahi tuna katsu plate lunch on the waterfront, at a restaurant promising Honolulu's best Bloody Mary.

The bartenders were slicing fresh pineapples, so I had a pineapple margarita with less tequila. "Are you sure?" she asked. (After 5 hours of sleep on Qantas, I was pretty wobbly.)

Clouds were gathering over the leeward mountains. A little rain was no problem.

I stopped by a wholesale lei warehouse and picked up a few gorgeous souvenirs, and even got the kamaaina discount. Are you sure you're not local? the guy asked, as he wrapped them up.

 

By now, I was playing Guava Jam by The Sunday Manoa on the stereo, humming along in Hawaiian.

And then I spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at Ala Moana park, watching surfers and snorkelers and kids trying out their Christmas bicycles. One man was sitting on a bench with a boombox singing classic soul. Two women danced and posed for photos in grass skirts.

I made a quick run for li hing shave ice and returned just as the sun sank into the horizon, last sunset of the year. Behind me, a church choir began to sing "Hallelujah." The sky glowed, not quite ready to shake off the year. I was thinking I'd miss the fireworks (again) when a bunch of firecrackers blew up a few feet away.

And then it was time to say goodbye. Honolulu airport is famous for live musicians. But I was surprised and delighted to be serenaded by a band and two hula dancers as I boarded my second New Year's Eve flight to California. Aloha!

All good trips leave you wanting more. And this was no exception. Happy new year! We made it.