crossing the river

Back in Rome, only this time, I'm staying in Trastavere, which literally means "across the river" (or in this case, across the Tiber.)

It's kind of funky and kind of trendy.

I chose the Hotel San Francesco because…well, you know why. The rooms are spacious. The breakfast is truly delicious, especially this fresh-squeezed orange/carrot/ginger juice. (Sadly the other reason I stayed here was the rooftop bar, which isn't open. But if Zeus is working, he will send you to the best authentic restaurants and tell you about the vintage market.)

There's a group of Americans staying at my hotel, the first Americans I've encountered the entire trip since the friendly seniors my second night. A bunch of college students meet their homestay families tomorrow; their chaperones, who teach Greek and Latin and architecture and archaeology, are making sure they know how to use the bus and their phones. 

I took the bus to Vatican City, and entered the walled enclave. Then you go through security at what is essentially a small airport or train station.

I had prebooked a guided tour through the Vatican's website. which only costs an extra 15 euros for 3 hours. Despite warnings from people who come here in the busy summer and fall seasons, you could have walked up at 10:45 and joined our 11 am tour.

Vatican City is sovereign! The Pope and Mussolini worked it out in 1929. Another country for my cap! At this rate I'll join the Century Club by the time I turn 90.

Our guide was excellent. She explained the Sistine Chapel details on a giant touchscreen as we waited for stragglers. The tour was in English, but the majority of participants were from Europe: Finland, Russia, maybe Germany.

And then we were off. When I arrived, it wasn't that crowded, but more and more people poured in throughout the day. The audio headsets are designed by the Bay Area's own Antenna. That way you can hear your guide even if you're on the other side of a gallery from her.

First stop, the giant pine cone. Unless it's an artichoke, or a pineapple. Surrounded by peacocks.

Touring the Vatican, even in the off season like now, is madness. Everywhere you look is precious art. Marble by Bernini.

Giant statues. Tombs.

The corporate branding is strong.

Basically the Vatican is one of the largest art collections in the world. Maybe the largest. Items were seized. Marble survived, and many paintings. Metal sculptures were melted down during subsequent wars.

Wow, a room of fantastic animals! Where's the guide?

Nice impossible edges

Some of the pieces are marked off. Others you can walk on. Touch even, though you shouldn't. Egyptians!

Why yes, that is Diana, the huntress.

This earth mother figure was directly across the way.

And who can resist a giant foot?

A crack in the ceiling

A tapestry, one of many. Supposedly the eyes follow you.

Fabulous tromp l'oeil. It's perfectly flat, all done with paint.

 So many incredible details in the map room.

Especially the ceiling. Every kingdom of Italy is represented. I hadn't realized Italy first became a unified country in 1861. This is when the cardinals locked themselves away, demanding sovereignty for the Vatican.

Italia antica

When in doubt, look up.

Tiny reminder in the floor that Jesus came from the tribe of David

Yes, another Rodin thinker. Not life size.

 Borgia ceiling painted in gold

 The modern section includes works by Matisse

and Ben Shahn

Spoiler #1: no photos allowed in the Sistine Chapel. More detail on their website.  Lots of people take photos anyway, and are then yelled at by the guards, who then intone "Silenzio!" My favorite panel is Adam and Eve being cast out of the Garden of Eden.

Assorted facts we learned about the Sistine Chapel:

• Michelangelo didn't want to work on it. First proposed when he was in his 30s, and he said no, he was a sculptor. He spent years learning to paint before agreeing, and completing this at 70.
• The Sistine Chapel was driven by circumstances challenging Roman Catholicism. Henry VIII had declared himself Pope of the Church of England because the Pope wouldn't grant him a divorce.
• Invaders and threats to Rome's sovereignty came from many directions, including France to Spain.

Spoiler #2: we weren't allowed to see the Pieta because they're polishing it up (or something) for tomorrow's epiphany service.

The guided tour did mean we got to go the back way from the museums to St Peter's (or San Pietro's) Basilica. Like everything in Italy, that involved a lot of stairs.

Don't forget to look up! Lots of popes are buried here, along with Queen Christina from Sweden. Here's a pope below. The painting is noteworthy because it's not a painting--it's a mosaic with a million pieces.

Frescos inside the dome. At this point, our guide reminded us there might be pickpockets inside the church. (The only pickpocket I saw in action was a "helpful" woman on the track at Trastevere train station, guiding a tourist into an elevator. The police quickly ushered her away.)

Everything in the Vatican is very big. This is something like the changing of the guard, except they're Swiss.

Lots of cool sculptures up on top. I never figured out how you go up the stairs to the top.

 In case you want to dress as a Pope...

My feet were beginning to ache. I got a bite to eat (lasagna! last night I had tonnarelli with meatballs) and then consulted a map to figure out where to find the bus back.

That's odd, I thought. When did I cross the river?

Do you see the problem with this map? The compass labels North, but it's pointing down! So south is up. Don't do this! Usability FAIL.

Fascist architecture from Il Duce, at the border of Borgo and Vatican City.

 Everyone was posing for pictures on the pedestrian bridge

The sun sets on another day in Roma. With the running path, the Tiber could almost be the Seine.

Saturday night, and it's time for dinner. I'll leave you with this exquisite fried artichoke. 

Tomorrow is Epiphany. It's also the first Sunday of the month, so museums are free.

I have big plans but will be skipping the Pope's address. I thought I did pretty well for secular Jewish atheist who hates crowds. Happily a lot of the art is classically inspired, filled with as much mythology as Christianity. 

Next time maybe I'd spring for an after hours tour. I do regret not using the Vatican's famously fast mail service. 

The Roman evening either keeps still or it sings. 

No one can behold it without growing dizzy, 

and time has filled it with eternity.

—Borges