bright lights, big city

“Once there was this little child
You know her I believe
Here’s who she is me ELOISE
And it is Christmas Eve.”

With the Blue Mountains still on fire, I spent an extra day in Tasmania and flew to Sydney on Christmas day. I considered extending my AirBnB in the hippest part of town until I found a great price for a venerable old hotel near the Opera House.

The Sir Stamford is everything the name implies: regal and old school, with service to match. My enormous room looks out on the royal botanical garden. They have 24-hour room service, including dim sum, and afternoon tea you can order for a picnic.

I feel distinctly like Eloise at the Plaza.

When I climbed up the hill from Circular Quay dragging bags full of Tasmanian salmon and sauvignon blanc, the hotel was in the middle of a lavish holiday brunch ($199, more than I paid for a night with breakfast). I passed and wandered out in search of an open restaurant, not an easy task on Christmas Day.

In addition to a small pool and sauna (conveniently down the hall from my room), the hotel also has a private art collection.

This is my favorite so far, even though it's hidden by a staircase near the day spa. They even have my grandmother's china in a cabinet on my floor.

Ferries to Manly and Luna Park leave  from right outside the door.

Today on Boxing Day, there was a giant eyesore: the enormous Ovation of the Seas in port. This is the same cruise ship that was at White Island off New Zealand 2 weeks ago and lost passengers in the volcanic eruption. I didn't realize they'd continued their voyage, if you want to contemplate a terrible package tour with no escape.

Downtown Sydney is vaguely historic, especially The Rocks, which is all spruced up for the holidays. 

Boxing Day was once known for leftovers, but in Sydney it's known for 50% off sales. I don't have any more space in my luggage, so I walked around the botanic gardens instead. 

They are pretty fabulous.

There are stands being erected for Sydney's biggest night, New Year's Eve. This is the view of Harbour Bridge from the gardens:

Plus you're surrounded by blooming flowers and giant fig trees.

This elegant bird is the Australian white ibis. They're everywhere in the park.

There's a whole section dedicated to palm trees, at least 50 different kinds, from elephant foot palms to date pals to skinny walking stick palms. And a Fernery, which notes a whole class of ferns has been named for Lady Gaga.

My last stop was the tourist info center at the Customs House, another elegant old building that's been retrofitted inside. In past years of Sydney's biennial, this atrium has been filled with art by Ai Wei Wei and Yayoi Kusama. Right now, there's a glass floor looking over a scale model of Sydney. 

Back at the hotel, I noticed their mascot is everywhere. Morris, the wombat.

Apparently you can borrow a Morris and bring him to the opera or to your room. They sell them too. Two of my great-grandfathers were named Morris, so I'll take this as another sign. (Did I mention how much I love posh hotels, and pretending I live here? I'd be sad to leave and return to ordinary life, except I'm excited about my next stop too.)

Take a deep breath. The year is almost over. We're just a little older, a little worse for wear.

What were you hoping for in 2019? What will you leave behind next week?

"See America First"

As promised, a roundup of the 4 historic Glacier National Park lodges, designed 100 years ago, plus a short stop at Issak Walton Inn, just outside the park boundaries.

Glacier Park and Prince of Wales were planned in the teens after the park opened in 1910, but building was delayed because of WWI. 

Many Glacier

This hotel celebrates its centenary this Saturday, July 4, 2015. 

I was sorry to miss the Hootenanny. 

Guests gather in the lobby in search of mostly non-existent wifi. The view's not bad either. We listened to a very talented pianist. 

To distract modern guests from the fact that there's no TV in the room, the hotel thoughtfully puts out half-finished jigsaw puzzles. I can imagine really enjoying this in other months when it's not light until 11. 

Swiss touches are everywhere. James Hill hired two famous architects to design Many Glacier. Early guests were transported in carriages and enjoyed five-course meals. 

Glacier Park

Totems from the Pacific Northwest welcomed guests arriving by train, typically from the east. Luxury lodges competed with cruises to Europe in that era. James Hill responded with an ad campaign encouraging travelers to "See America First." 

Unlike the trees in the Many Glacier lobby, bark on these trees was left intact, perhaps because it's literally across from the East Glacier train depot. 

This Chickering baby grand is 100 years old. I grew up with a similar piano in my grandparents' house, now in my uncle and aunt's living room. 

Compulsory mounted animal heads.

Prince of Wales

Across the border in Waterton, another castle.

Here's a closer look:

Another huge atrium and chandelier.

And don't forget the Scottish theme, complete with men and women in tartan plaid kilts.

Lake McDonald Lodge

The first lodge I visited a week ago. It reminded me of one of the mansions on the shores of Lake Tahoe.

More Native-American influences in these charming lanterns.

Compulsory animal heads. Today there are signs warning you not to take antlers (or hunt) within the park boundaries.

Isaak Walton

This lodge in Essex is known for cross-country skiing. 

Plus you can sleep in a caboose. 

Great Northern trains stop right outside your door. Oh, that's the door to your room.

Not good for light sleepers. 

One last post tomorrow, reflecting on this journey and on our heritage of National Parks.