Gentile viaggatore

Dear traveler, the email from Italo read...I was already in the train station when I read it, learning my fast train to Salerno was running late.

So I loitered and leaned, checking out the snacks in the train station. Biscotti and bergamot.

Cones of prosciutto, eaten with a stick. I got a small porchetta sandwich instead, but instantly regretted it.

Two hours later I disembarked in Salerno. At times the train went 300 km per hour! I noticed the difference immediately. First of all, people spoke to me in Italian.

Salerno is not a tourist town. It's a working port that was nearly destroyed by allied bombs in the second World War. There's centuries of history here too--the first medical school in the world is still in operation.

But what I noticed immediately in this city known for lemons is how it looked like an Italian movie. Maybe something by Rossellini. Not fashionable and snobby like Rome. But real.

Anyway, I'm only in Salerno for one night, and that's because of Luci d'Artista, an annual holiday lights show.

The weather wasn't fully cooperating. This is looking north up the Amalfi coast from my terrace. I'm staying in the penthouse at Casa Maria. It's glorious, once you climb 5 flights of stairs.

Antonio recommended specific installations, including this elaborate creche, made here in Salerno. Even though it was under a concrete barrier, there was music playing.

I wandered through a courtyard filled with street art and discovered this magnificent mosaic octopus (for Susan).

And then the lights began. Salerno is famous for its fishing, and this park was filled with killer whales, dolphins, and swordfish.

There were also rainbow tunnels here and there, full of people taking selfies.

 More sea creartures

 The rain even stopped. It's a lot warmer in Catania too.

 Flying jellies and an angel outside the Duomo.

 Flying through the sky

and across the courtyard. 

Inside, magnificent mosaics

and a second century crypt.

This reminded me of an eastern Orthodox icon, only much bigger.

The tower looked a little spooky at night.

 By now, the whole town was out admiring the holiday lights.

The rain had stopped too.

I even gave in.

 The Salerno lemons were lit, and I had limone Italian ices to honor them.

I've saved the best for last: Neptune, driving a chariot of rainbow unicorns!

Would I kid you?

 The dolphins were leaping out along the embarcadero.

and closer to home, I prepared to climb 5 flights of stairs.

 My movie set awaits.

 Wise cracker

And all was still, and clear.