munchies in Magna Grecia

Archimedes (philosopher, mathematician, physicist, poet) was from Siracusa, then the capitol of Magna Graecia. 

In his honor, I spent a few hours at the archaeological sites a few minute's walk from Andrea's place.

The Greek theater is remarkably preserved (and a little restored). In the late spring and early summer, you can watch performances here.

 Or just hang out on a rock.

Here's the view from center stage. Not too shabby.

Nearby is a formation known as Dionysus' ear. (Do you see it?) It's about 90 feet high. There was a big tour group ahead of me, which was a little annoying. I've been spoiled having Sicily mostly to myself until now.

The acoustics, as you might imagine, are awfully good inside a huge cave. So just as I was starting to scowl about the people, the guide of the German group began to sing:

"Volare! Oh oh oh oh!" And we all joined her.

The same complex includes a Roman amphitheater, built in the 1st century BC. Gladiators fought here until the 4th or 5th century, when fighting was outlawed. After touring the Colosseum and the amphitheater at Pompeii, I rather enjoyed seeing this one overgrown, reclaimed by nature.

On the way back to pick up my luggage, I stopped in for a snack at a local cafe. For breakfast, Andrea served paper-thin sliced mortadella and told me about zuppe Papale: literally Pope soup aka ricotta. He also picked up broccoli and potato impanatas.

You might think this pastry was matcha (it would be in San Francisco) but in Sicily, green means one thing: pistachio. It was awfully good. I got up to pay for the pastry and a cappuccino and asked about this hemp display. CBD is now legal all over Italy. I said I didn't smoke, but in California, we have edibles, and they offered me a slice of cake.

The cake, pastry, and cappuccino, with service, came to 4.40 euros--under $5. In case you think you can't afford to go to Europe.

Next stop: Catania for Capodanna. The bus took a little over an hour, and then I left the grimy bus depot to descend into a brand new, completely empty Metro station. There was a security guard upstairs, but otherwise I was completely alone on the platform for a good 10 minutes. Then a new subway car covered in graffiti went by in the other direction. Flashbacks to NYC in the 80s. Only this wasn't The Warriors.

A couple of happy laughing girls and I got into the sparkling car and went a few stops.

If there's a design theme here, I don't know what it is. For a euro, it's a great deal.

Antonio, my new host, sent instructions on how to get to the B&B from the Metro stop. Finding each new hotel is a puzzle of sorts. This one had two security codes for the gate to the complex and the front door. And then the keys to my room were inside a colored box. I had chosen the Amelia room (of course). With a view of this pretty courtyard.

What better place to start the new year? So here I am in Catania, after a huge garlicky bowl of spaghetti con vongole, capped with a self-service pour of limoncello at a neighborhood trattoria. My Italian is improving. A family even stopped me on the street to ask for directions.

The TV has 3 or 4 cooking channels and lots of serious looking interview shows, but I've settled in for A Chorus Line, in Italian.

"Volare...Oh oh oh oh..."