Sunday, December 29, 2019

welcome to the new town



On Friday, I moved to a new part of Sydney. Newtown is incredibly diverse and vibrant. Coldplay even filmed a video here on King Street.


I'm staying at an AirBnB run by Ravi, who several years ago, alarmed by the plight of immigrants, turned his family living room into Parliament on King, a bookstore, cafe, salon, art studio, and community center. It's a modern-day Shakespeare & Company, and everyone wanders by in the course of a day.

The cafe is literally a social enterprise. You can rent it out. 

You can request a private catered dinner for 20 of your friends from an asylum-seeking chef.

Or just come drink iced coffee and housemade kombucha, and learn all the neighborhood gossip. Random people drop by, some of them regulars, others for the first time. Bebe might turn the disco ball on. Hani might start to dance.

If you sit still, Chin Chin the parakeet will perch on you, or take a bath.


There are bands playing on street corners. You can get your hair cut at Mister Hipster or drop by the button store or any of the lash salons.

King Street in Newtown is like Fitzroy in Melbourne or the East Village or Bermondsey, a combination of funky and up and coming with already arrived.

The neighborhood is adorable. Yesterday we dropped by a garage fundraiser for the firies: shockingly, the Rural Fire Service in Australia, fighting unprecedented blazes in the mountains to the west and south, is largely staffed by volunteers.

I'd never seen pink plumeria before. Everything is in bloom here.

Wish I had a neighbor with all these avocados. The house itself is very peaceful. Shades of Turrell.


Like the bookstore, the rental is full of books and Corningware my mother had.

Sacks of coffee beans get a new life in the yard.

You can feel the neighborhood evolving in real time. They have fantastic vintage shops, as good as Artifact in Portland, which forced me to buy a whole new suitcase.


Come. Take a stroll. Stay a while.

You'll never get bored.

Some newcomers have objected to bars staying open all night. The neighborhood pushed back.


There's terrific streetart and murals everywhere you look.

I don't know why MLK is here, but he is. The smaller dream mural to the right alludes to the aboriginal concept of dreaming.

Despite the name, Newtown is old. Lots of good bones for that Thai restaurant or record store or sound healing studio you've always dreamed of opening.


There are Instagram kids following the mural trail and stopping at their favorite bakeries. Okay, so one of them was me.


The best/most ridiculous of all is Black Star. 


It's not like I too didn't want to try everything in the case. But I had to get what we'd all come for: the strawberry watermelon slice.

I got it to eat in, but there wasn't anywhere to sit, so I found a bench. Two Japanese girls of no more than 22 sat next to me and unwrapped their black star boxes like Christmas presents from Tiffany. Truly from the sublime to the delicious.

Today I headed downtown to see the Powerhouse Museum, a collection of science and design. On the way, I discovered a food court and several blocks of restaurants that felt like I'd been transported to Singapore or Shanghai. The building above is one of a series of new library branches!
 Combo laksa for the win.

Unable to resist a machine, I put my $4 in and got a fabulous fresh-squeezed juice.  When can we get one of these in San Francisco?


Darling Harbour is in fact darling. Filled with fancy donut shops and cafes and dumpling providers and concoctions of yogurt with black sticky rice. It's the new boba, or so I hear.



The Powerhouse Museum was inspiring. I made my way to Newtown on the bus, wishing for a few more stomachs.


I stopped by the cafe where there'd been some commotion. A neighborhood guy had pushed Mother Yen, the beloved owner of the Vietnamese restaurant across the street. No one was having it. Police were interviewing him and all the witnesses, which was clearly visible from Parliament's picture windows. I ate dinner at Mother Yen (banh xeo plus a refreshing soda lemonade) in solidarity.


How many hours a week do we bemoan San Francisco no longer being the boho town we moved to years ago? Parliament on King is a chance to rectify that, a way to return to that moment when we too were new in town, and everything was possible and pay it forward. 


Meet brilliant new friends from Iraq and Somalia and Saudi Arabia and Japan and Ohio and Sydney, while you're at it.


The year is coming to an end, but as a guy on a scooter reassured me tonight, that's just an arbitrary demarcation.

Learn more about Parliament on King and how you can support their mission. Or if you're in Sydney, drop in for a drink and stay awhile.

3 comments:

  1. You must have felt completely at home.

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  2. That slice, and the neighborhood, looks amazing!

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  3. I was intrigued by the abalone cans: I probably should have realized that there are abalone in Australia, but I didn't. Turns out that (at least as of 2016) WA has one of the planet's few remaining wild-stock abalone fisheries. Yet another reason to keep Perth on my map of places I really want to visit.... https://www.fish.wa.gov.au/Species/Abalone/Pages/default.aspx

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