scenic byways

We set off early from Zion. First stop: Checkerboard Mesa, which Chris proceeded to climb. After an hour we turned right onto Scenic Byway 12, and drove it start to finish. This is a road.

My memories of Red Canyon from last year did not disappoint. Real Thelma and Louise territory. Adam: Why did you make me watch that film?

Next was a quick visit to Inspiration Point at Bryce, the first time for Chris and Adam.

Afterward we took a short hike to the mossy cave and waterfall. Did I take the same arch pictures last year?

Continuing east on 12 took us to through the Grand Staircase of the Escalante. Is there a more beautiful road in America with its twists and turns and canyons of every color?

We made it to the Anasazi Museum in Boulder just before closing. This state park houses thousands of artifacts of early native Americans in the region. This is a recreated fire pit.

We drove through rain (rain!) at 9600 feet on Boulder Mountain, and then descended to lovely Capital Reef in time to chase the sunset. Highway 12, end to end.

Adam drove us deep into Capital Gorge, as the steep sheer rock faces rose above us.

How, we wondered, did the Mormon wagon trains cross these enormous mountains?

Waterpocket fold continues for nearly 100 miles. The only cuts across it are washes, which can be full of water in dangerous flash floods.

Fruita, the oasis of Capital Reef, is green with water from the Fremont River. Settlers—no more than 10 families at a time—planted apples and peaches and pears. You can still taste the fruit of their labors today in the orchards.

Also along the river are giant sandstones with 13th-century petroglyphs. So wonderful that they've survived this long.

canyon country

The last time I was at Bryce, I'd climbed to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and back up the day before. We staggered to the viewpoints, took a few pictures, and drove on to Vegas.

You can see how ridiculous that was. 

These are the hoodoos. They're formed by wind erosion, and reveal millions of years of history. 

I loved this natural amphitheater. And the conversations of the other tourists.

"Is that a dog barking?"
"No, that's my brother."

This area is known as Sunset Point. 

"We're just going to stand here forever? Till it gets dark?"

As at the Grand Canyon, the trails are steep and not for the faint of heart. 

"Where would I hide? I'll bet dragons live here."

But oh so worth it. A woman from France and I talked about the US election, and she, like others, warned against Donald Trump. She searched my face as if to ask if it was possible he might win.

I ended the day with a ranger talk on Astronomy with Ranger Kelly. The stars at 9000 feet with no humidity and surrounded by darkness are incredible. There's also an astronomy festival going on with giant telescopes. 

Kelly told us that after looking at the stars, some people experience a kind of celestial vertigo, overwhelmed by the immensity of it all. 

"You start to sense your place in the universe." This is why I came.