Utopia now

Tipped off by a TV show I watched on the plane, I headed for the bathroom with the best view of Helsinki. 

(No, seriously. The bar is atop a hotel tower. You go up a secret spiral staircase.)

 It's beautiful up on the 14th floor, and the sky unexpectedly cleared in every direction.

In case you didn't believe me. (Would I lie to you?)

Prices to match but hell, it was my birthday. 

Later I strolled down to the Design Museum but hit a jet lag wall and decided to eat dinner early and save design for tomorrow. 

Juuri is a casual locavore restaurant specializing in saapas, Finnish tapas. (Pics to come.) I did miss a glorious sunset. 

 What can I say about Finland except that dessert with a prix fixe is licorice, two ways?

This morning I had delicious breakfast at a cafe Roger recommended followed by the Design Museo where I learned more about the history of Finnish design. A few favorites you might recognize. 

Marimekko! Aunt Barbara would be proud. Finnair actually has Marimekko napkins and blankets on the flight.

 Angry Birds!

 Scandinavian minimalism

 Lapland-influenced fabrics.

 And the NetSurfer recliner. Glad that one didn't take off.

 This is the famous maternity box that new Finnish parents get. Everything you need.

But saving the best for last, Wednesday is women's day at the historic Yrjonkatu pool. I splurged on a private cabana with a robe, up on the second level. 

Two saunas, a divine herbal steam room, and a clothing-optional Olympic pool. No photos but here's what it looks like. You should see my backstroke. 

I'm about to board the overnight ferry to Tallinn. Delicious details tomorrow. 

Helsinki, you were grand.

heaven & HEL

Hei hei from Helsinki. My seatmate on the flight was Vivienne from Ireland, on her way to Berlin. We chatted about her impressions of San Francisco, traveling in Southeast Asia, and design. Her: "You are wide awake for four in the morning!"

The difference is apparent as soon as you arrive at Helsinki Airport. Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore. I zigzagged my way out of the duty free shops in the international terminal (worse than a casino, trying to find immigration here), officially entered Europe, and headed for the train to town.

On my way for a swim at the Al Las seapool, I joined the line at a fast food stand and ordered a poroburger (reindeer). On rye. Just like Rudolph's grandma used to make...

As promised, the pools are outside, and they were warm except the one on the right, which is just the Baltic. I stretched out my muscles from the flight and swam a few laps. There was only one guy taking selfies. (I know, that guy!) Then I headed inside for the real attraction: the sauna. Hard to beat the view from inside the sauna.

See, you do know a Finnish word. As Finns like to remind you, there are 5.5 million people in this country and 3 million saunas. In the old days, they were mostly public. Today most are private like Löyly, the hot new place in town. 

I think I'l give it a miss. The sea pool is a good deal: 12 euros for a swim and a sauna. But towel rental was an extra 8. 

The entrance to my charming guesthouse. Many Helsinki building have decorative elements from Lutheran churches. With very long summer days and very short winter ones, sunlight is a precious component.

 There's a lot of gorgeous architecture, both old....

 and new...

I've started to think of contemporary Scandinavian design as Starkitecture.

The most important architect in modern Finland, which is celebrating its 100th birthday this year, is Eliel Saarinen. His son Eero Saarinen designed the old TWA building at JFK and my uncle's lab at IBM and my college dorm. Not a lot of straight lines or flat walls.

I thought this fish sculpture in front of the music hall was pretty ugly.  The teeth are cool. Apparently the things on the right are piano lids.

Typical muted tones of the Helsinki palette. The housing stock is enviable. So many exquisite and exquisitely maintained buildings with art nouveau and art deco touches.

My favorite building so far is Temppeliaukio, the rock church, built in 1969 and submerged slightly. As you enter, music from the massive pipe organ welcomes you.

The copper ceiling brings all the elements—rock, light, wood, metal—together. Honestly I'm not sure why the seats are fuchsia.

Much more to explore, especially the cafes. I'm a little woozy from jet lag, but it is my birthday, after all.

the happiness tour

I'm headed to Europe for a whirlwind trip to Scandinavian and Baltic capitals. Countries with the world's highest quality of life ratings. What makes their cultures so balanced, so enlightened?

First stop: Finland! See you on the other side...of the Atlantic.