uptown girl

What a difference a day makes! 

I'm staying on the 22nd floor of a luxury hotel with a giant bathtub and gianter bed, 

eating a set menu including warm oburo tofu made to order at a fab funky sushi bar 

(Tatsushi, shades of beloved Minako)

listening to live music, working down my $50/day food and drink tab at the bar. The Kahurangi Sauvignon Blanc from Nelson was gorgeous. When I returned the next day, the bartender had another Sauv Blanc for me to try. 

24-hour room service. Late checkout. Valet parking. Bath sheets. Spa robes. Who am I? 

I got a screaming deal. After a sale and Orbucks from my airline ticket, I paid only $141 for two nights. With the food and drink credit, they're practically paying me to stay here. 

It's the weekend before Christmas so downtown is a little deserted, like it was when Susan and I stayed here five years ago. There are a few new office buildings. Lots of cranes, no longer for bungy jumping. 

Squeezing in a day of museums and holiday shopping and flat whites before heading out of town. I'll write about the Great War Memorial separately. It does a fine job of bringing war history and propaganda to life. 

market day

We got up early today and filled two trucks to nearby Zumbahua for the Saturday market. 

There were live animals including some waiting to be shorn, or eaten. 

Fresh cheese

and artfully wrapped rounds of palm sugar. 

I brought home  a basket of tart mora (blackberries) for $1. 

We were surprised to find rambutan, but Greta had seen them growing in the Amazon. 

Surprisingly eucalyptus trees grow in Chugchilan at 10,000 feet. 

I admired the amaranth

and rows of bananas 

and spring onions. 

Giant cabbages reminded me of the Alaska state fair. 

Rachael and I were tempted by huge pots of rich soup stock, but resisted. 

And of course there were cariocas for Carnaval. No one was spared. 

in the kitchen

Behind the pool and villas, Ron and Irma built an outdoor kitchen. We made six dishes. The staff did a lot of prep work, including grating the coconut

We added water and squeezed to make coconut milk. Pretty nifty. 

Some of the coconut was reserved and toasted. We also did lots of peeling with terrible knives. Eat your colors, as Ilene taught me. 

Mortars and pestles made an appearance although many cooks today use food processors.  

The secret to sate? I'm not telling. But wet the sticks first so they don't burn. 

Simmering tuna and beef rendang were equally tasty. 

Surprisingly the most interesting dish was the spring rolls. We made the wrappers from scratch, using tapioca flour. You paint them into a no-stick pan and heat until they peel off. 

Then we filled, rolled, and fried them. Don't press too hard!

Enak!

Great way to spend a morning. And then a last swim, and I headed east to Amed. 

(These carved fruits are fake, but I liked them any way.)

at the market

I woke up early this morning to go to the market with Irma, for a more formal cooking class. Sanur market opens at 4 am. Traditionally people shop every day. 

We bought tuna and vegetables and chicken and fruits. 

You can also buy breakfast. 

This couple is making nasi goreng. 

They sell banana leaves…

and flowers and baskets for preparing offerings to the Hindu gods. 

There are chiles, of course. 

And this. Any idea what it is?

Next up: cooking with Irma at Sanur Beach Villas. 

mushroom madness

We stopped for lunch at Le Jamuran. Jamur means mushroom. This is a vegetarian restaurant where mushrooms substitute for meat in traditional Indonesian dishes. 

Mushroom sate. Mushroom rendang.

Sweet and sour mushrooms. Steamed pepes, like a tamale wrapped in a banana leaf. 

The food was a bit spicy for my friends, but not for me. It was delightful, made even better by a singer doing an impressive imitation of Adele and trays of fresh mint tea. 

Take home live mushrooms from the gift shop. The restaurant caters to Indonesian tourists, like much of Jogja, whereas Bali caters to Westerners and other foreigners.

Total for lunch for four: 108,000 rupiah or less than $10 total. 

enak

This morning, Richie taught us a few typical Javanese recipes that he learned from his mother. He said it was easier now that he didn't have to get the coconut milk straight from the coconut. Lots of preparation. 

Indonesia was known as the spice islands. Ingredients include kaffir lime, star anise, candlenut, shallots, coconut sugar, and a bright, minty basil. Plus of course garlic, salt, chiles, and lemongrass. 

Then add already fried chicken and simmer. The last ingredient was Indonesian soy sauce, which is thicker and sweeter than Chinese soy sauce. 

Salad was a light, crunchy break. My health coach will be proud of me. 

Lunch is served. Lemongrass chicken in a caramel sauce, salad with chopped long beans and peanut dressing, and fried hard-boiled eggs with a sensational tomato–pepper–coconut sambal. 

It was enak: delicious. (This is only my first helping.)

These cakes for dessert are made of the same bean sprouts from green beans. With a lot of extra sugar. 

Thanks to our top chef for sharing his family's recipes and his warmth in every way.