Showing posts with label Kalaw. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kalaw. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 20, 2017

a bowl of heaven

We set off from Kalaw after breakfast with Emma, the owner of Elpis Cafe & Trekking, and Aung Bone Bone, our intrepid guide.
The night had been extremely cold, which made us glad we weren't doing a longer trek, staying in a village or at a monastery.
 Plus we got to see the egg tree.


Throughout the day, the gardens impressed us. Everything, it seems, grows in the hills north of Kalaw: papayas, bananas, and oranges but also cauliflower, mustard greens, garlic, tea, and coffee. 

 These water buffalo tend the grass.

 Have you ever seen pumpkins growing upside down?
 We ambled along on back roads and trails, coming upon stupas, families, and farmers.
 The greens looked good enough to eat. Pam called it a bowl of heaven.
 Picking spicy peppers for lunch.
 Taking a break along the way.
Isn't it a gorgeous valley? Parts of it felt like Sonoma, except the slopes of the mountains were much much steeper.
As we reached the top, we entered a Palaung village. Despite being on top of a mountain, the village is prosperous, judging by the temple, school, and satellite dishes.
Emma said we were not to be disrespectful under the banyan tree. No kissing. No drinking, No peeing.
This monument commemorates spirits who first smelled a nut and then came to earth. (Or something like that.)
Villagers dry tea leaves in the sun. We've bought lots of tea in Shan state. Very little of it is exported, which is a shame.

These crazy cacti on a cement post and an old tire are how dragon fruit grows in Shan state.

Do you recognize these berries?
(They're coffee.)
We passed this appealing homestay near the end of our day trek. I'd love to stay here next time, as long as I have internet access.

Thanks to Emma and Aung Bone Bone for a splendid day. 8 miles later, we earned our flutes of Myanmar bubbly at the local wine bar. I can't imagine a better trek.

Tuesday, December 19, 2017

balloons over Bagan

I saw the photos of Balloons Over Bagan two months ago and was very tempted to splurge. Instead, we wound up getting up before dawn and hopping in a tuktuk to watch them float across the sky.
At first it was dark and cold, and we were barefoot on the terrace of a temple near Dhamma Ya Zi Ka, where we were last night. And then the sun began to rise and so did the balloons!
In the east, over Mt. Popa.
 Maybe I've had a more incredible morning. I can't remember one.
 The balloons slowly, silently floated over head.



So it turned out, after taking photos in Bagan for 3 days, atop towers and through arches and at night, that the secret was to wake up early. Lesson learned.

After breakfast, we waved goodbye to War War, the guardian angel and manager of Ruby True, in her brightest yellow dress, and headed for the airport.

A half hour flight and then an hour's drive to Kalaw, a town known for trekking, brought us back to Shan state. Of course our first stop after the hotel: Shan noodles.

We enjoyed them with delicious coffee and delightful company at Elpis Cafe. Emma, it turns out, used to live in Pasadena and returned to Kalaw to care for her aging parents.


We happened upon a procession for noviates.

The temple is covered in tiny mirrored tiles: I dubbed it the disco pagoda.

It was market day in Kalaw, when the five day market is in town. This is a local market, not crafts for tourists.

We loved it.
 Emma said these are a kind of stinky green. I didn't try them.

These are betel leaves. You wrap a bit of betel nut in them with a lime paste. I tried one on the train. You get quite a jolt!
Aren't they lovely?
The rice stand

Heading home after a long day of shopping