water world

Inle Lake (also written Inlay Lake) is a UNESCO biosphere project. It's a freshwater lake less than an hour's drive from Kalaw, where we were hiking, but it feels a world away.

You can rent a long tail boat for about $15 for 5 hours. It's a great way to unwind and take in the mountains and scenery.

We weren't looking to shop, but our first stop was a workshop where they weave silk, cotton, and lotus threads.

 This boy is demonstrating how you get threads from a lotus stalk. It was fascinating.

The threads are then spun and woven on a loom. The traditional Shan colors are vibrant.

All the weavers are women. Of course we couldn't leave without a few souvenirs.

We ate lunch by Phaung Daw U pagoda, one of the country's holiest shrines. Inside, on a platform where women are not allowed, are what appear to be 5 golden cakes. They are actually Buddha figures that have been covered in gold leaf by visiting pilgrims. The entrance is a big mall with stores selling elephant pants, scarves, messenger bags, and swords.

We liked this golden chicken, part of a boat that ferries the Buddhas around on the full moon in September.

The communities we visited live on the lake. They have electricity and satellite dishes. 

A lot have hanging orchids and other container gardening.

They farm in the lake, growing hydroponic tomatoes and many greens.

The bamboo poles attract greenery.

While many residents and fishermen have long tail boats with lawnmower engines, others have old fashioned dugout canoes.

The floating monastery is notable mostly for its location in the middle of the lake. It is famous for the jumping cats, but the monk who trained them died, and now there are just hungry cats.

An old video with the cats.

After the monastery, we headed back for sunset and were treated to a real sun salutation by a graceful fisherman.

Inle fishermen are famous for paddling their canoes with one barefooted leg. It's quite something to see.

At sunset, they pose for the tourists. We were grateful to have such cooperative models up close.

So graceful. 

Impossibly beautiful.

 Not a bad way to spend a day.

Good night.

Postscript: an unlikely Louis Vuitton poster at the monastery commemorates the fisherman.

"Wait just a moment"

A slow travel day, one in which barely anything happened. Instead of taking an hour car ride, we decided to take the train (~3 hours plus a taxi to Inle Lake). The train was running late so we picked up surprisingly delicious Mexican food(!) from Picasso's. Because, why not?

 Pam was happy to be on the train again.

There was at least one chicken in our car. These ladies had done some marketing in Kalaw.

Mountains of cabbages

You had to admire this woman's posture, her balance.

 Not a lot to do except stare out the open window, as the train bounces down the rails.

 But what a view it is. The train travels slowly enough that you can make eye contact with people outside.

 Villagers walk by, sometimes at faster speeds than the train.

 The foliage changed as we descended, a lot drier and somewhat warmer than Kalaw.

In places, the rich soil was bright orange.

Young children gawked and waved as the train went by.

A factory spewing pollutants was the sole eyesore. I also spotted a drone (!), illegal in Myanmar, hovering near the Bawa Than Tha Yar bridge, recording the passing train.

And at long last, a slow sunset with cocktails at the rooftop bar to mark the winter solstice, comparing notes with an inquisitive Canadian traveler. Tomorrow: the lake.

a bowl of heaven

We set off from Kalaw after breakfast with Emma, the owner of Elpis Cafe & Trekking, and Aung Bone Bone, our intrepid guide.

The night had been extremely cold, which made us glad we weren't doing a longer trek, staying in a village or at a monastery.

 Plus we got to see the egg tree.

Throughout the day, the gardens impressed us. Everything, it seems, grows in the hills north of Kalaw: papayas, bananas, and oranges but also cauliflower, mustard greens, garlic, tea, and coffee. 

 These water buffalo tend the grass.

 Have you ever seen pumpkins growing upside down?

 We ambled along on back roads and trails, coming upon stupas, families, and farmers.

 The greens looked good enough to eat. Pam called it a bowl of heaven.

 Picking spicy peppers for lunch.

 Taking a break along the way.

Isn't it a gorgeous valley? Parts of it felt like Sonoma, except the slopes of the mountains were much much steeper.

As we reached the top, we entered a Palaung village. Despite being on top of a mountain, the village is prosperous, judging by the temple, school, and satellite dishes.

Emma said we were not to be disrespectful under the banyan tree. No kissing. No drinking, No peeing.

This monument commemorates spirits who first smelled a nut and then came to earth. (Or something like that.)

Villagers dry tea leaves in the sun. We've bought lots of tea in Shan state. Very little of it is exported, which is a shame.

These crazy cacti on a cement post and an old tire are how dragon fruit grows in Shan state.

Do you recognize these berries?

(They're coffee.)

We passed this appealing homestay near the end of our day trek. I'd love to stay here next time, as long as I have internet access.

Thanks to Emma and Aung Bone Bone for a splendid day. 8 miles later, we earned our flutes of Myanmar bubbly at the local wine bar. I can't imagine a better trek.