"See America First"

As promised, a roundup of the 4 historic Glacier National Park lodges, designed 100 years ago, plus a short stop at Issak Walton Inn, just outside the park boundaries.

Glacier Park and Prince of Wales were planned in the teens after the park opened in 1910, but building was delayed because of WWI. 

Many Glacier

This hotel celebrates its centenary this Saturday, July 4, 2015. 

I was sorry to miss the Hootenanny. 

Guests gather in the lobby in search of mostly non-existent wifi. The view's not bad either. We listened to a very talented pianist. 

To distract modern guests from the fact that there's no TV in the room, the hotel thoughtfully puts out half-finished jigsaw puzzles. I can imagine really enjoying this in other months when it's not light until 11. 

Swiss touches are everywhere. James Hill hired two famous architects to design Many Glacier. Early guests were transported in carriages and enjoyed five-course meals. 

Glacier Park

Totems from the Pacific Northwest welcomed guests arriving by train, typically from the east. Luxury lodges competed with cruises to Europe in that era. James Hill responded with an ad campaign encouraging travelers to "See America First." 

Unlike the trees in the Many Glacier lobby, bark on these trees was left intact, perhaps because it's literally across from the East Glacier train depot. 

This Chickering baby grand is 100 years old. I grew up with a similar piano in my grandparents' house, now in my uncle and aunt's living room. 

Compulsory mounted animal heads.

Prince of Wales

Across the border in Waterton, another castle.

Here's a closer look:

Another huge atrium and chandelier.

And don't forget the Scottish theme, complete with men and women in tartan plaid kilts.

Lake McDonald Lodge

The first lodge I visited a week ago. It reminded me of one of the mansions on the shores of Lake Tahoe.

More Native-American influences in these charming lanterns.

Compulsory animal heads. Today there are signs warning you not to take antlers (or hunt) within the park boundaries.

Isaak Walton

This lodge in Essex is known for cross-country skiing. 

Plus you can sleep in a caboose. 

Great Northern trains stop right outside your door. Oh, that's the door to your room.

Not good for light sleepers. 

One last post tomorrow, reflecting on this journey and on our heritage of National Parks. 

huckleberry pie

Since so many of you want to know who has the best huckleberry pie in Montana: 

The answer is Luna's in East Glacier Park. Hands down. And I don't even like pie, but this had a graham cracker crust. 

Tart huckleberry lemonade too. 

And really good fish tacos. Now you know. 

another day, another glacier

I saved the best for last. 

No, really. 

Many Glacier might be the best yet. 

I hiked out toward the waterfall at red rock lake. 

Here's the red rock with the heart-shaped cloud. 

And of course the enviably situated Many Glacier hotel. More on that later. 

They were having a fire drill as I arrived. 

You can't be too careful on such a hot day with a huge log cabin, surrounded by forest. It's so hot they ran out of ice cream. 

Look at the trees used to construct it. 

On the outside it looks like a Swiss chalet. 

The rooms have Swiss flags and instead of kilts, the staff wears leiderhosen. No, really. 

I'll write more about the four Glacier National Park hotels later. July 4th will be the 100th anniversary of its opening, part of the Great Northern railway expansion. 

Happy birthday, Many Glacier. See you again soon. 

Blackfeet Nation

The plains indian tribes migrated west till they hit the Rockies, which are steeper on the east side. 

The area around East Glacier was settled by the Blackfeet who came south from Canada 400-500 years ago. There were 30 million buffalo at the time. 200 years later, horses and firearms began to reach the Blackfeet. 

By the U.S. Survey 100 years ago, only 1100 buffalo survived. Today thanks to major efforts by farmers and conservationists, there are half a million buffalo. No longer endangered. 

I stopped off at the Museum of the Plains Indian in Browning. 

No photos allowed, but they have an elegant mural and a fine small collection of historic buckskin garments, beaded moccasins, and weaving with porcupine quills. The informational video was narrated by Vincent Price! 

Based on the parking lots though, many more people were at the casino next door. http://www.iacb.doi.gov/museums/museum_plains.html

I talked with Ernest Marceau Jr., a talented local painter who uses 19th century tax ledgers as a canvas, and brought home two of his acrylics. 

For more authentic handmade Blackfeet crafts, contact Blackfeet Indian Market. http://blackfeetindianmarket.com/

The historic park lodges also depict Native American culture, some more stereotypically than others. Tomorrow night I'll go to a Blackfoot storytelling performance inside the park. 

These totems are from the luxury Glacier Patk hotel. A few local motels even offer tepee camping—cultural appropriation meets glamping. Though I did love this drive thru espresso tepee. 

I'll stick to my little railroad cabin. 

medicine for what ails you

Spoiler:

I headed east today across the Continental Divide again. There's a Washington monument styled thing honoring Teddy Roosevelt and Lewis & Clark (and Sacajawea) and this guy who worked on the railroad. 

I also stopped at the salt lick where there were goats as promised. 

One of the kids was shy, but the other turned and looked at me before bouncing away. 

East Glacier is kind of cute, an historic railroad stop with old school motels and ice cream shops. But how much huckleberry pie can a person eat?

First a hike to Running Eagle falls named after a beautiful, brave Blackfoot warrior. 

It's an easy walk through the forest past thistles and over streams.

Complete with tiny bridge crossing. Then you arrive.

And it's so lovely. I wish you could hear it. 

Even the rocks are prettier in Montana, polished by centuries of glacial movement and fast running streams. 

None of this prepared me for Two Medicine Lake. Breathtaking. Uncrowded.

I went for an hour hike and then hopped on a boat tour where a couple of cute Montanans told us about geography, trees, and Blackfeet native heritage. This is Rising Wolf, one of the tallest mountains on this side of the park. 

Did you know moose can hold their breath underwater for 3 minutes ? 

Two Medicine Lake reminded me of Fiordland, the southwest corner of New Zealand. Not incidentally one of my favorite places on earth. 

We even picked up hikers at the end of the lake, just like on the Milford track. 

Wish I'd had time to kayak. Conditions were perfect. 

It is hotter than usual. 

Once there were 150 glaciers within the park boundary. Today there are 25. Climate change is also endangering the spruce trees that grow on the mountainsides. So don't wait too long to come visit. 

It's hard to imagine a better day. I'm writing this on the porch of my cabin, original railroad housing, watching the sun slowly fall below the mountains and listening to the train rumble by. Wifi is iffy, but I'm trying to practice patience. 

I can't wait till tomorrow.