the loneliest highway in America

We drove east toward Ely. 

The hills were filled with wildflowers. 

Indian paintbrush and tiny daisies 

and pretty orange flowers. 

Highway 50 is called the loneliest highway in America for a reason. 

We pulled into East Ely for my first ride on a steam train. 

This is a great place for train geeks

The trains are powered by coal and staffed by volunteers. 

Out the window we saw Ely through a different lens. 

We rode all the way to Keystone canyon, where gold and copper were mined at the Ruth mine. 

Did you know more gold is mined in Nevada than anywhere else in the country? And that gold mining is high tech and pays well? Elko has a large, diverse mining workforce. 

We pulled back into the station after a slow, relaxing ride. I wasn't the only one who fell (briefly) asleep. 

And then it was off to the Utah border, to look at the stars, and Mars, and watch basketball. 

An incredible day in a remote part of the west. 

"See America First"

As promised, a roundup of the 4 historic Glacier National Park lodges, designed 100 years ago, plus a short stop at Issak Walton Inn, just outside the park boundaries.

Glacier Park and Prince of Wales were planned in the teens after the park opened in 1910, but building was delayed because of WWI. 

Many Glacier

This hotel celebrates its centenary this Saturday, July 4, 2015. 

I was sorry to miss the Hootenanny. 

Guests gather in the lobby in search of mostly non-existent wifi. The view's not bad either. We listened to a very talented pianist. 

To distract modern guests from the fact that there's no TV in the room, the hotel thoughtfully puts out half-finished jigsaw puzzles. I can imagine really enjoying this in other months when it's not light until 11. 

Swiss touches are everywhere. James Hill hired two famous architects to design Many Glacier. Early guests were transported in carriages and enjoyed five-course meals. 

Glacier Park

Totems from the Pacific Northwest welcomed guests arriving by train, typically from the east. Luxury lodges competed with cruises to Europe in that era. James Hill responded with an ad campaign encouraging travelers to "See America First." 

Unlike the trees in the Many Glacier lobby, bark on these trees was left intact, perhaps because it's literally across from the East Glacier train depot. 

This Chickering baby grand is 100 years old. I grew up with a similar piano in my grandparents' house, now in my uncle and aunt's living room. 

Compulsory mounted animal heads.

Prince of Wales

Across the border in Waterton, another castle.

Here's a closer look:

Another huge atrium and chandelier.

And don't forget the Scottish theme, complete with men and women in tartan plaid kilts.

Lake McDonald Lodge

The first lodge I visited a week ago. It reminded me of one of the mansions on the shores of Lake Tahoe.

More Native-American influences in these charming lanterns.

Compulsory animal heads. Today there are signs warning you not to take antlers (or hunt) within the park boundaries.

Isaak Walton

This lodge in Essex is known for cross-country skiing. 

Plus you can sleep in a caboose. 

Great Northern trains stop right outside your door. Oh, that's the door to your room.

Not good for light sleepers. 

One last post tomorrow, reflecting on this journey and on our heritage of National Parks.