My lovely hostess told me about a Swiss resort at the top of the ridge but said they had trouble getting towels to dry.
The springs themselves were very modest, simpler than similar places I'd been in Costa Rica or Peru. They did have 7 pools though.
The walk through the fertile grounds reminded me of hot springs in New Zealand where I went with Susan Carter.
I was the only tourist. The pools were fairly empty when I arrived but full of happy kids by the time I left. A giggling little boy wearing Angry Birds water wings hung out with me for a while.
The heart-shaped pool was the hottest: 38.1 degrees (100 Fahrenheit!). The kidney pool was freezing.
Tomorrow I'll try the big springs closer to the volcano.